BAKEWELL BLUE TARTAN PATTERN

Bakewell Blue CAL pattern link

HERE

The Cal will be in 3 stages, with 3 colour options, a formula to use your own colours and a new block joining stitch to give an additional narrow stripe to the tartan

6 colour block weight: approx. 80g

For each block you make you will need a total of 80g in 6 colours for the 36square block multiplied by the number of blocks you want to make, 

I am using 16 x 80g = approx. 1280g, plus yarn for the border

Link to previous 

INTRODUCTION POST

HERE

11 colour block, Weight: approx 140g  9 blocks

9 blocks @ 140g will be approx. 1260g.  plus yarn for the border

My "Less Baggy" c2c pattern in detail

Thanks Hookers for a fabulous crochet weekend in Bala...some of the girls asked for my c2c pattern 2013, in one place and easier to find so here it is...

Have fun.

CROCHET: A Less 'baggy ' C2C Square Tutorial 

This tutorial will give you a C2C with no visible holes, unless you pull to piece to reveal the holes, i close and firm c2c

 Explaining the C2C block by block.

US Terms in black UK Terms in brackets in red

C2C patterns can be made in one plain yarn...great texture, 

stripes... so a pattern can be made when you join small blocks together,

 or you can just make a large striped piece...square or rectangular

Above every row is a different colour so lots of ends...when i change colour i cut and pull the last colour straight though the last two sts on the hook.

Then I add the next colour through the same pair of stitches, hold both ends and crochet over the top of them so no ends to deal with at the finish.

Below a space dyed yarn c2c triangle scarf

space dyed yarn gives an automatic stripe with no effort and no ends to deal with.

I have broken this tutorial down into blocks not rows hoping to help those crocheters who are really not understanding the C2C pattern, with its twists and turns and decreasing.

CLOSER/FIRMER C2C TIP
Want a less 'baggy' open look?.....use 2ch as the replacement dc [tr], use 5ch for the turn not 6ch. Also use sl st. and not sc [dc], when joining the blocks together

Personally i would always use 2ch as a replacement for dc [tr], in all my work because of the baggy look 2ch gives....give it a try and see what you think

 C2C HOW TOO BLOCK BY BLOCK
 Increasing the Blocks and Decreasing the Blocks

Block 1: sl knot on hook, ch5, 

1dc [1tr], in 3rd sts from hook, 

1dc [1tr], in next 2 ch sts, the first 2ch sts, become the ch sts you crochet into on the next row.

 Block 2: ch5, 1dc [tr], in 3rd st from hook, 1dc [1tr], in next 2ch sts, 

fold up first block up to hook, sl st or sc [dc], into corner of the first block.
NOTE: depending on how close I want the finished piece to look I will use either sc [dc], or sl st to join to the next block

Block 3: ch2 counts as first dc [tr], 3dc [3tr], into ch sp.

Block 4: ch5, dc [tr], in 3rd st, from hook, 1dc [1tr], in next 2ch sts, fold up the main body of c2c, to the hook, sl st/sc [dc], in the corner of the next block

Block 5:ch2, 3dc into ch sp, sl st/sc [dc], into corner,

Block 6: repeat block 3

Block 7: repeat block 4 this is the end turning block.

Repeat this pattern to the size you require 

Blocks 8-10: repeat block 3

Block 11: repeat block 4.

Blocks 12-15 repeat block 3

Block 16: repeat block 4

Keep repeating the mid row blocks (block 3) and the
end turning block (block 4) pattern until your c2c is the size you require 
TO CHANGE COLOUR

Cut and pull first yarn though st

put hook back though both the last 2sts

pull new colour through last 2sts.

ch5, 1dc [1tr], in 3rd st from the hook, 1dc [1tr], in next 2 sts, 

fold main body of c2c up to hook and continue as before crocheting over the ends as you go any ends left use a bodkin to weave in

To Decrease.

Stop INCREASING THE BLOCKS when your piece gets to the size you want.

Turn before the ch5,

sl st or sc [dc], into top of next 3 sts, sc [dc], into ch sp, 

and continue to 

 repeat block 3.....ch2 as first dc [tr],  3dc [3tr], into ch sp, sl st/sc [dc],into corner of next block....

continue to end of row stopping before the last block turn and repeat sl st/sc [dc], across the top of the last block continue with block 3 and repeat turn

repeat decrease both ends until you have a completed square 

To make a rectangle only decrease one end and continue to increase the other until you have the size you want then decrease both ends.

BETHANY SKIRT: SHAPED SQUARES

The shaped top row of the Bethany Skirt...

 By changing the side stitches to hdt [htr] and ch1 in the 4 corners you will make a slightly narrower square adding a small amount of shape to certain places along the top row

I am going to use this slightly narrower granny square at the sides and in the same places as you would have darts in a skirt, 2 darts at the front and 2 darts at the back

DIAGRAM OF WHERE TO PUT THE SMALLER ST.

DO NOT USE THE SMALLER STITCH ON  BOTH SIDES OF ONE SQUARE

 but on a left and right side of 2 squares creating a dart effect join as you go in the same way using a sl st instead of the ch1, at the corners and adding a sl st  at the sides to join the squares together

The diagram above shows a skirt made from 7 squares wide and 6 rows, your skirt might be more squares so the smaller stitch might need to be on different squares. 

 Its not a huge amount but enough to just pull in the waist line a little to help with the narrowing of the waist line.

Pattern for the shaped Granny Square

ROUND 4, replace the side granny shells of 3 dc [3tr], with 3hdc [3htr], and only do ch1 in the corners keep the 3dc [3tr], the same at the top and bottom of the square, just do the smaller st, on one side or another and match 2 reduced st sides together when joining.

GRANNY SQUARE SKIRT MINI CAL

HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE....
Will be adding a few more pictures of the completed Angel Wings Shawls as soon as I'm feeling fighting fit again,,darn cold, loss of voice and generally feeling tired not been good this last week.

AS PROMISED...

Welcome to the first day of Bethany Skirt Min CAL
This was the picture of a Granny Square Skirt Bethany saw and asked if i could make her one similar. Bethany picked her colours from my stash and we decided on a joining colour.

 Carolyn has made a lovely skirt with a knitted waist band, i will be making a crocheted version but i've added the link if you would like to do a knitted waist band like Carolyn
 handmade by Carolyn 
click link to see here original post 

GRANNY SQUARE TIMINGS: 1minute for the first round

2 minutes for the second round

5 minutes for the 3rd and join as you go round

Please don't be rushed, work at your own pace but i need to complete Bethany Skirt in 

the next 8 Days..a birthday present for the 9th January.

not exactly sure of the number of 3 round granny squares i need yet next post will confirm the number

2 rows of 6 squares joined together measure 5" x 15 or 12.75cm x 38cms

So at the moment I'm working on

14 rows x 6 GS = 84 squares approx  

IN TIME: 84 X 8 = 672 MINUTES, that's 11.2 Hours for squares

plus a couple of hours to do the waist band and an hour to do a hem edge and a couple of hours for hiccups lol.

Rounding the time off say 18-36 hours to make a mini skirt....depending on your crochet speed 

So to complete this Bethany Skirt mini cal you will need at least 2-3hours a day to complete in  8/9 days.

Up for it? 

Then here we go

I'm using 9 colours of Merino and a 

10th Merino/acrylic in charcoal grey to join the 2round squares together

DAY 1:

So start by making the one round granny squares in each of your chosen colours 

start on the second round and do at least 25-30 of the second round if you want to complete in 8/9 days

DAY 2

Working 2-3hours should see all your second round squares complete. 

DAY 3

We will start the join as you go a new post on 3rd January 2017

WORK AT YOUR OWN PACE.

If you don't have a couple of hours a day then double the days and work a little slower. Do your own timings so you can work out how long it will take you 

measure the widest part of the hip/bottom and add approx. 4"  10cm ease

if making it for a child then you might find rows of 5 squares in length will be just right and slightly less ease will be needed 

PATTERN

US Terms, UK Terms in brackets 
basic 3 ROUND GRANNY SQUARE

Make 78 squares 9 colours you need 8 of each colour and 6 extra, pick 6 of the colours to add these extra squares. 

Finger wrap of 4 wraps

ROUND 1: first colour, ch2 counts as first dc [tr], 2dc [2tr], ch2, 3dc [3tr], ch2, 3dc [3tr], ch2, 3dc [3tr], ch2, sl st into first st, cut and weave in ends.

ROUND 2: second colour, ch2 counts as first dc [tr], 2dc [2tr], in first ch2 sp (corner), 3dc [3tr], ch2, 3dc [3tr] in next 3 corner sps, finish with 3dc [3tr], ch2 in first corner to complete sl st into the first st. 

Angel Wings Shawl PATTERN PART 2

ANGEL WINGS SHAWL MINI CAL PART 2

  
 Mesh Stitch band for PART 2 with a Picot finish

PATTERN PART 2
continue from part 1 in your chosen yarn and hook size

ROW 7: Turn, ch5 ,miss a st, sc [dc], into next next st, miss a st,  repeat, 

 at ch2 point, sc [dc], ch5, sc [dc], into ch2 point, miss a st, ch5, sc [dc], into next st, ch5 miss a st, sc [dc], into next st, repeat to end

last sc [dc] goes into the sp between last 2sts. (27 loops)

 ROW 8: Turn ch5, sc [dc], into first ch5 loop, repeat to end

 Finish with a sl st into first ch st of the loop below ( 28 loops)

ROW 9: turn, sl st, into 3ch sts of the first loop (you are now in the correct place to start this row of ch5 loops)

 repeat the ch5 loops and sc sts to end of row

 finish with a sc [dc] in last ch5 loop (27 loops)

ROW 10: turn, 3sc [3dc], into first ch5 loop,

 make a picot of ch3,

sl st into the sc [dc], to complete the picot,

 making a tiny bobble 

2sc [2dc], into the same ch5 loop, to complete the first picot detail, 
repeat in every ch5 loop to end.

Part 2 of the Angel Wings Shawl completed, to be continued 
you should now have 27 picot loops 

Part 3 tomorrow 

Stylecraft Merry Go Round

 3ply hand dyed Indie yarn and pure super soft 3ply baby alpaca used as one yarn

Pound Stretcher dk and Aran below not the softest yarn but love the colours