SIMPLE NEAPOLITAN RIPPLE BLAKET AND BABY BLANKET PATTERN

 Neapolitan Ice cream Ripple Blanket and  Ripple Baby blanket with a shell ending 

A Basic 16st Repeat Ripple Pattern

TIP1: When you are making a very big ripple throw or blanket then add on an extra few stitches in the first ch st row, then remove them later..this allows for any miss counting of stitches when you get to 200 and something its easy to miss count.

TIP2:If you are creating your own ripple with more or less stitches on the up and down always always start with a set of decrease sts first...so you go down then up with the ripple first then the straight edge people find so difficult will be easy to achieve

This is a ripple with a decrease of three sts, and a increase of 3 sts, with the in-between count of 6dc sts (6tr sts) this up and down 6sts count, could actually be any number of sts, depending on the ripple you want. 
The in-between sts, will give a deeper or flatter ripple.

This 16sts, count Ripple. 

You need a multiple of, 6sts up, 1st, for the increase then 6sts down then 3sts tog, for the decrease so that makes a st count of 16sts 
I've worked out with a small sample how many sts you need to make the blanket you require....

Using a 4mm hook and the dk 
16ch sts, measures approx. 3.5" (9cm)

I am actually making a Baby Blanket size approx:25/26" by 30"
 7 ripples of 16sts, making a base ch of 112sts
after crocheting a few rows this has worked out to be...

112sts is approx. 25.5"
 and 
8rows is approx. 3.5" (9cm)

US Tems in black and UK Terms in red

BASIC BABY NEAPOLITAN RIPPLE PATTERN

 ch 112 (7 ripples of 16 sts) plus 2 as the first dc (tr)

UPDATE NOTE: 
I decided a single row of shell stitches was all it needed so it wasn't going to be quite as wide as a stroller blanket, if you want a wider blanket nearer to the stroller size add another 16sts to make 8 ripples across and not the 7 ripples of original pattern...making 128ch st base +2sts as first dc

ROW 1: (the ch2 counts as the first dc (tr)), 1dc (tr),is in the third st from the hook, (you now have 2sts)

1dc, (1tr) in the next 4sts. (= 6sts) 

Half make a dc (tr) in the next 3sts, you will have 4 loops on hook, 

pull yarn through all loops to cluster tog, the 3 sts (this is the decrease, the bottom of the ripple)

1dc (1tr) in the next 6sts, 

 3dc (3tr), in the next st (this is the increase of the ripple and the top)

*1dc (1tr) in the next 6sts

half make a dc (tr), in the next 3 sts and then pull yarn though all 4 loops on the hook drawing 3 sts tog, (this is the decrease and the ripple bottom)

1dc (1tr) in the next 6sts, 

 3dc (3tr), in the next st (this is the increase of the ripple and the top)


then repeat from * to make 6 complete ripples

the 7th and last ripple...
1dc (1tr) in next 6sts, half make a dc (tr), in the next 3 sts and cluster tog.

1dc (1tr) in the next 4sts, 2dc (2tr), in the last st.


TO TURN...

Row 2:Turn, ch2 counts as first dc (tr), 1dc (1tr) in the first st, 

1dc (1tr), in the next 4sts, 
(so including the ch 2 st, you should have 6 dc [6tr],)

cluster tog the next 3 sts (bottom of ripple)

1dc (1tr), in the next 6sts

3sts in the next st ( this should be the middle st of the 3 increase sts of row below)

1dc (1tr) in the next 6sts, 

 cluster tog. the next 3sts

1dc (1tr) in the next 6sts repeat the 16st ripple pattern to end, 

finish with 1dc (1tr), in the next 4sts, 2dc (2tr), in the last st, turn

Row3: repeat row 2 until your ripple is as big as you want it to be in length.
dk and 4mm hook is working out approx. 8rows = 3.5" (9cm).

 I will be making my baby blanket approx. 28-30" Long...
approx.64 rows and I'm working the colours in double stripes, 
so that will be 32 coloured, ripple stripes.

Colour changing.
When you get the the last st of every pair of ripples (a double stripe)

before completing the second part of the last st, pull the new colour yarn through instead of the last colour to complete the st,

  cont. with the new colour.

Change colour every 2rows

BABY BLANKET RIPPLE

BLANKET WEIGHT APPROX: 340G

SIZE APPROX:29" X 35"

Use the 16sts repeat ripple pattern and start with a chain of 8 ripples x 16sts (128ch sts) 
as the base chain
Work 36 x 2row stripes to give a Stroller size baby Blanket 

 Shell Stitch Edging keeping the ripple ends......if you spent time doing a ripple why fill in the ends?

 SHELL EDGING Pattern: 

ROUND 1: Attach yarn in the first corner sp (1st stripe), of straight side, 5dc (5tr)into the next sp, (2nd stripe),

 sc (dc), into next sp, (3rd stripe) 5dc (5tr) into next sp (4th stripe), 

repeat the shell pattern to the end of the straight side.

finish with a sc, (dc) in the last side sp (last stripe),

miss first two sts, 5dc (5tr) into the next st, miss 2st, sc (dc), into next st,

 miss 1st, 6dc (6tr), into the st at top point, miss 1st, sc (dc), into next st, miss 2sts, 5dc (5tr) into the next st, miss 2sts, 

sc (dc), into the botton st, (dip of ripple, the st that pulled the 3sts together) repeat the shell pattern to end of ripple end

Repeat shell pattern to the second side, repeat shell pattern to second ripple end sl st to complete. 

Cut and weave in end

Shell Edging st, on an easy 16sts repeat Ripple

PART 4 SCRAP GRANNY RIPPLE CAL

FACE BOOK GROUP FOR ALL UPDATES 

UPDATE 19TH FEBRUARY FOR RIGHT AND LEFT END PANELS HAS BEEN ADDED TO THE PARTS1-3 POST TOO

PART 4: END PANELS 

NOTE: the top pointed end of this half panel has tr, and not dc, to help extend the point for a better fit and length to the half end panels.

Joined in the same way join as you go on the 6th row using a sl st between gs. Note there is a right and left hand pattern for the half end patterns

PATTERN

 1st col. Ch 29.

ROW 1: 1st col. 3dc, into 5th ch, from the hook, miss 2sts,  3dc, in next st, repeat [miss 2 sts, 3dc, in next st], to last st, in last st, 4dc. [9granny shells]

ROW 2: Turn, ch3, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, in first st, 3dc in each of next 9sp. cut and weave in ends. [11gs]

 row 3 both pointed end and flat end 

ROW 3: Turn, 2nd col. att yarn in fist st [flat outer end], ch2, 3dc [gs], in next 9sp, 3dc, ch2, 3dc in next sp, 4tr, in last sp, between 3rd and 4th dc. [12gs]

ROW 4: Turn, att. 3rd col. att. 3rd col, [top, pointed end], ch3, 3tr, in first sp, between 1st and 2nd tr of row before, 3dc [gs], in next sp, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, [corner], 3dc [gs] in next 10sp, ut and weave in ends. [14gs]

ROW 5: Turn, att.4th col. in first st [flat bottom end], ch3, 3dc [gs] in next 10sp, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, in next corner sp, 3dc, in next 2sp, 4tr in last sp, [pointed end], cut off and weave in ends. [15gs]

NOTE:

2patterns left and right half panels, because you work right to left 

The 6th row is the join as you go row and 2 right end panels will need to be joined from the pointed end and 2 left end panels from the flat end 

ROW 6:  RIGHT SIDE: join as you go using a sl st between each gs, att. 5th col. ch3, 3tr, in first sp [pointed end], between 1st and 3rd tr, of row before, 3dc, in next 3sp, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, [corner], 3dc in next 11sp.

ROW 6: LEFT SIDE: Join as you go using a sl st, between each gs, att 5th col. ch2, 2dc in first st, [flat end], 3dc in next 10sp, 3dc, ch2, 3dc in next corner sp, 3dc in next 3sp, 4tr in last sp 

Repeat for all 4 end panels

RIPPLE/PLAIN SLIPPER PATTERNS: All in one post

BASIC RIPPLE PATTERN

RIPPLE SLIPPER/SOCKS

UPDATE:oops! this pattern was in UK TERMS...NOT GOOD its such an old pattern i was doing them in uk terms back in 2009 and using 3ch for a tr definitely needs updating xx
NOW UPDATED

SLIPPER/ WRIST WARMER RIPPLE PATTERN:

Chunky or 2 strands of dk 6mm hook

Approx. 70g for a pair of socks 20 hows with a shell edge
You can make a pair on less than a day

NOW CORRECTED 
US TERMS
chunky or two strands of dk
6mm hook

ch24, sl st into circle, you need multiples of 12sts  ripple

NOTES: 4 base ch, for the first 4dc then one chain for the increase of 3dc in one st, then 4 chain for the next 4dc then

3ch for the decrease of 3 sts = 12 to make a ripple pattern. pattern repeat of 2 patterns for each row

ROW 1: [Ch2 counts as the 1st dc], 1dc in next 3ch, increase do 3dc, in next ch st, making a point, 1dc, in next 4ch, cluster the next 3sts tog, [half make a dc, in next 3sts, hold the loops on the hook, yo, pull through all of the loops to make a cluster and the side dip in ripple] repeat to complete the 1st row, sly t to complete

ROW 2- 14: change colour every row for strips or use self striping yarn,  repeat the 1st row until you've done as many rows as you need to fit your wrist or foot l did about 14 rows for the wrist warmer. 

Finish with a single crochet and a 6 chain loop at the front point to go over middle finger…This will keep the wrist warmer in place….looks quite Medieval too!!

 14 rows but a bigger hook for the slipper/sock for my size 4 shoe (6mm hook) and 16 rows and a bigger hook(7mm) again for OH slipper/socks at size 9 shoe

FINISH EDGE: Sew the one end together for socks, POINT AT CENTRE FRONT, and add a favourite shell stitch, frill or decorative stitch to the top of the sock.

Add your favourite flower decoration, this is one of my favourites on this bag, a leaf and circle flower embroidered onto project 

picture construction of 

RIPPLE SLIPPER OR WRIST WARMER

WRIST WARMERS TO GO WITH THE SOCKS IF ITS REALLY COLD

LADIES SLIPPER PATTERN

Make them as plain, or decorative as you want...stripes plain or with flowers

LADIES SLIPPER PATTERN

(USA Terms)

Chunky or Very chunky yarn and 5mm hook

Basic pattern, you may need to alter lengths depending on the yarn used and foot size

PATTERN: make 2

Ladies: size4/5

chain 4, into a circle

Row 1: 12 dc into circle, sl st to complete round (12sts)

Row 2: 2dc in each stitch, sl st to complete round (24sts)

Row 3: 1dc in each stitch plus one extra at the end of the round, sl st to complete round (25sts)

Row 4: 1dc in each st, sl st to complete round (25sts) 

Row 5- 11: Repeat row 4 (25sts)

NOTE: adjust the number for your foot, high or low front

BACK OF THE SLIPPER:

The back of the slipper is worked back and forth not in the round as are Rows 1-11

NOTE: Depending on yarn this could be less rows

Row 12-16 depending on foot size and yarn etc: 

1dc in the next 20 sts then turn and work back and forth until the correct amount of rows have been done to fit your foot snugly. 

TO FINISH:

Sew or sc the back seam together.

Add a SC stitch in a contrast yarn around the opening edge,

keeping it quite tight as after one wearing they stretch a bit.

DECORATION:

Make a flower or circle decoration, and sew it to the Slipper front.

HELPFUL TIPS:

For me 16 rows was perfect in one yarn in another I only needed 14 rows in total it just depends on the yarn you use.

And to get the right fit with one yarn I did the last row in SC and not DC.

Don't make it too loose or they won't stay on your feet as they stretch a little in the first wearing.

But it is easy to adjust the number of rows to fit your foot and make them personal.

Started to make another pair with a lower front and longer back....

so play around with the number of rows for the front and the back.

MEN'S  SLIPPER PATTERN

(USA Terms)

Chunky or Very chunky yarn and 5mm hook

Basic pattern, you may need to alter lengths depending on the yarn used and foot size

PATTERN: make 2

Gents: size 10

chain 4, into a circle

Row 1: 14 dc into circle, sl st to complete round (14 sts)

Row 2: 2dc in each stitch, sl st to complete round (28 sts)

Row 3: 1dc in each stitch, sl st to complete round (28 sts)

Row 4 - 11: repeat round 3 (28sts) 

NOTE: adjust the number for individual foot

I did 16 rows in total for my son who takes a size 8.

BACK OF THE SLIPPER:

The back of the slipper is worked back and forth not in the round as are Rows 4-11

NOTE: Depending on yarn this could be less rows

Row 12-18  depending on foot size and yarn etc: 

1dc in the next 23 sts then turn and work back and forth until the correct amount of rows have been done to fit your foot snugly. Some yarns it is 6 back of slipper rows and some it is 7.

FRONT TAB:

An additional tab front into the 5 sts left off when doing the backs at the front plus two more stitches one each end of the tab.

 So do 2 rows of 7dc, start in the last stitch of the side/back and finish in the first sts of the side/back so that both ends of the tab overlap the side/back by one stitch

TO FINISH:

Sew or sc the back seam together.

Add a SC stitch in a contrast yarn around the opening edge and tab front

keeping it quite tight at the back but not so tight over the tab.

DECORATION if you want:

Make a circle decoration, and sew it to the Slipper front.

HELPFUL TIPS:

The number of rows in the total  length can depend on the yarn you use.

And to get the right fit with one yarn I did the last row in SC and not DC for some yarns

Don't make it too loose or they won't stay on your feet as they stretch a little in the first wearing.

But it is easy to adjust the number of rows to fit your foot and make them personal.