ALTERNATIVE SOLID GRANNY SQUARE
We all know and use the solid granny square but have you ever tried working the stitches into the spaces instead of the stitches?
Looking for a different look to a solid granny square then give it a go, its gives a more vintage feel to your solid squares. And for a real beginner its easier than finding the stitches to work into.....
I'm suggesting random/space dyed yarn but each round could be in a different colour and you can use the original granny square concept of using up left over yarns.
IMPORTANT NOTE: please read.
Always look for the patterns and repeats in pattern, it will help.
Always look for the patterns and repeats in pattern, it will help.
If you have a go at this granny square, you will notice that the increase goes up by a different number of sts, on each round and alternates between odd and even numbers.
This is important as just doing [1dc, ch3 1dc], in the corners, for every round will make your square cup slightly.
And doing [2dc, ch3, 2dc], in every corner will make the square wobbly and not sit flat.
By doing the alternate corner increase you will have a completely flat square and means you can do a large square blanket if you want.
This alternating odd/odd/even number of sts, could open up lots of possibilities for adding different stitches to the outer edge when your throw is completed. Depending on if you finish with an odd or an even row. Personally i would choose an odd number to finish on as this is a more versatile number to work edging stitches into.
For Example: any stitch that needs 2 base sts needs the extra st to balance the st. So an odd number is better, any finish stitch worked into every st, doesn't matter if there is an odd number or an even number.
For Example: any stitch that needs 2 base sts needs the extra st to balance the st. So an odd number is better, any finish stitch worked into every st, doesn't matter if there is an odd number or an even number.
Worked continuously the first and last st, moves along the join side.
Number of squares
Decide on the size of your square and if you want an odd or an even number of sts to finish with. Measure you square and work out the size of throw you require
Make lots of smaller squares and join as you go using a sl st, into the spaces after completing each st, on the side being joined.
YARN:
For my blanket i am aiming for 6 x 6 squares
Each 8 round square measures approx. 8"/20cm, so with out the border it should measure approx. 48" / 122cm
Each square weighs approx 20g so a 50g ball of the Stripes wool mix from Wilko's should give me around 2.5 squares so I will need 14 x 50g balls plus 2or 3 for the border or an alternative yarn to finish it off.
UPDATE: I am actually getting almost 3 squares from a 50g ball.
If you want to get 3 squares from one ball to make the usage smaller then make a 9 round square instead of a 10 round square.
This should give you 3 squares from one 50g ball making the body of the throw 12 balls of yarn instead of 14 balls then all you need is a couple of balls plus for the border yarn.
This change will only make the throw a tiny bit smaller.
This is a mock up blanket to give you an idea of what will look like but as it's random dyed yarn each square will be slightly different from each other.
YARN:
For my blanket i am aiming for 6 x 6 squares
Each 8 round square measures approx. 8"/20cm, so with out the border it should measure approx. 48" / 122cm
Each square weighs approx 20g so a 50g ball of the Stripes wool mix from Wilko's should give me around 2.5 squares so I will need 14 x 50g balls plus 2or 3 for the border or an alternative yarn to finish it off.
UPDATE: I am actually getting almost 3 squares from a 50g ball.
If you want to get 3 squares from one ball to make the usage smaller then make a 9 round square instead of a 10 round square.
This should give you 3 squares from one 50g ball making the body of the throw 12 balls of yarn instead of 14 balls then all you need is a couple of balls plus for the border yarn.
This change will only make the throw a tiny bit smaller.
