MANDAL OVAL PATTERN NOW COMPLETE

COMPLETE OVAL MANDAL PATTERN 

HERE

Final border pattern now added, a broad band of BLOCK STITCH

PATTERN LINK POST

PATTERN 1: BLOCK STITCH AND 'V' ST, SCARF PATTERN August 10th 2018

Due to a site copying my complete blog I will no longer be publishing patterns on my blog only links. The title is the link click to find the listed pattern

PATTERN 2: 8' CRESCENT MOON WRAP  August 8th 2018

Crescent Moon Wrap cont.

Hope everyone is getting enjoying the base pattern. I know a number of you have already made one or two base pieces ready to add the side bands too. Theses where you can design your own stitches with a few tips or wait and use one or other of the stitches suggested by the group

I've made 2 or 3 and used block stitch, finished with a tooth like triangle edging.... 

This one is smaller because i only had one ball of the bright yarn and i mixed it with the black and white yarn not been blocked yet but it is more of a scarf than a wrap

Dc, back post stitch, front post st, finished with a sc triangle..... 

this is the original one i made, is blocked, and measures approx. 6' long with 13 rows in the side band and small triangles to complete

shell stitch....

so far only added one round to this wrap, but i will be adding several rows of shells 

And the last one i am trying is a combination of stitches....

this last one is the bigger version deeper and wider. Same pattern but an increase to 25sts, [approx 50cm], a straight length [approx. 50cm] and a decrease of 25 sts [approx 50cm] SO YOU BASE CRESCENT IS APPROX 1.5M long before you start adding side rows.
The side band of is made up of pairs of 2dc, 'v' stitch, and dc in the spaces so far.

TIPS FOR ADDING THE SIDE BAND ROWS...Important you read this section thoroughly. The start and finish is very important for each row 

I have found that you don't need to increase on each round, other than at the beginning and end. 

I also used a tr st, to start and finish the points, this helps keep the points long. 

So the only increase i did for each round is 3tr, and 3dc in the first and last stitches, this was sufficient to curve the points into a crescent. Other than that it  DIDNT NEED ANY INCREASE ALONG THE LENGTH, it just seems to widen a little for each row.

You do need to start with enough stitches for each side section [side of each dc/tr] I used 4 or 5 sts into 2 sections, depending on which one i made.

This will enable you to use a lot of different stitches for the side rows, use one stitch or a combination of stitches 

So have a go at adding you favourite stitch or wait for the ones tried, pattern to be added each day through this week i will add 3 of mine this week and any others next week.

Have fun and be creative..

 Original Pattern AND INFO

BASE PATTERN FOR A CRESCENT WRAP

another brighter option i tried last night 

4MM HOOK, 
Space dyed yarn for automatic colour changes, dk 

US Terms.

A crescent shawl always sits beautifully around your shoulders wraps around you and give that 
lovely hug we all like

This pattern has been inspired by the crescent Moon and what it means....

The women of this world seem to have a very special connection to the moon, and the crescent moon
 is 
a beautiful way to express her dark and mysterious side. The moon is a symbol of regeneration, 
and without the female of the species bringing new life into the world, there would be no life.

FOR EVERYONE with a new beginning or new life in their family.

PATTERN

Please note that you start with a right angle triangle made from the top point to the wide base, then 
a straight length, then a right angle triangle from the wide bit to the finishing point.

INCREASE is ONLY ON ONE SIDE, and the other side is kept straight making a right angled triangle.

Sl st, on hook, ch3

ROW 1: dc, in first ch, [2dc]

ROW 2: ch2, turn miss the first st, dc into sp. [2dc]

ROW 3: ch2, turn, dc in first st, dc in next st, dc in sp between last 2 sts. [3dc]

ROW 4: ch2, turn, miss the first st, dc in next st, dc, in sp between last 2 sts. [3dc]

ROW 5: ch2, turn, dc in first st, dc in all sts, dc in sp between last 2 sts. [4dc]

ROW 6: ch2 turn, miss first st, dc in all stitches, dc in sp, between last 2 sts. [4dc]

NOTES: by row 6 you can easily see which is the straight side if you have difficulty then add a st, 
marker to the increase side so you always know which row starts with a stitch into first st.

ROWS 7-33: REPEAT ROWS 5 AND 6 ALTERNATELY

Ending with 2 rows of each increase...

2,2 3,3 4,4 5,5,6,6,7,7,8,8...... and so on, until you have 18sts in last 2 rows. [18dc]

ROWS 33-51: mark row 33, then work each row STRAIGHT, 
ONE STITCH IN EACH STITCH with NO INCREASE, FOR 19 ROWS.
the ch2 counts as the first st  [18sts]

IMPORTANT NOTE: This odd number of rows will ensure you can add almost any stitch to the

 side bands. Some stitches can be done in each section, so it doesn't matter how many sections 

you have, but some stitches require 2 sections e.g. a shell stitch you would do the shell in the
first section, and the anchor stitch in the second section, then repeat so at the end you would
 end the row with an anchor section if the number of sections is even, with the extra section 
[odd number of sections] you will have enough sections to finish with a shell st not the anchor....
hope that helps with designing the side rows?

ROWS 52-83: decrease ONLY on the same side as the increase and do 2 rows of each count, 17,17,16,16,15,15,14,14...as so on until only 2 stitches remain.
Pull yarn through and hold ready for the first row of the next stage.

HOW TO DECREASE

ch1, hold on hook, half make a dc pull yarn through both sts, now counts as 

one st. 

JOINING THE CAL?

the base crescent can be made in a couple of hours so if you are quick and want to make more 

than one ready for Monday and stage 2, feel free, I'm sure there will be lots of variations to 

have fun with.

SO... 4 Days to make one or more base crescent ready to add the chosen side bands. I will share

a few tips on adding your chosen stitches on Monday.

SOME YARN OPTIONS: 

Any yarn could be used but my suggestion is to use dk and 4mm hook

A space dyed yarn is a good idea, if you want to use lots of colours, so that you can concentrate 

on the increasing and decreasing.

Different coloured yarns can be used in the second stage side bands 

On Monday i will add my options for the side rows, there are many many options to complete 

this Crescent Moon wrap. Hope some of you will join the fun and try your own stitches so that we

 can make a few crochet community Wraps.

All the variations will be share by the participating Hookers on my Facebook Group

Sue Pinner Granny Squares

click the link and join the crochet community 

Here are a couple of the variations i've tried so far, there will be hundreds of options you could try,

 so have fun

Update August 3rd

2nd Crecsent Moon Shawl completed, this is more of a scarf than a wrap really as

 i only had one ball of the bright yarn.
8 pattern rows of Block stitch added to the base pattern with a spiky, 
black and cream tweed triangle edging 

BLOCK STITCH STILL ONE OF MY MOST POPULAR STITCHES

 Block Stich, ever made a wrap cushion? Or a blanket, a square, or a circle using the stitch?

BLOCK STITCH SQUARE

BLOCK STITCH, INTERLOCKING BLOCK STITCH, ROWS SQUARE AND CIRCLE...All in one post

Block stitch is one of my favourite simple stitches easy to do with some fabulous effects just using colour. It can be done in the round in a square, straight rows...in lots of colours or just a few. It can also be done as an interlocking stitch and stripes and squares can be created 

BLOCK STITCH AND INTERLOCKING BLOCK STITCH

This pattern is still as popular as the day i did the original way back in 2012, on this post i've pulled all the variations together in one post and its still a favourite stitch and some of the projects I have used the stitch...

BLOCK STITCH SQUARE:

worked like a granny square in the round with the sc/ch2 loops between each round 
Using a Rainbow yarn for the chain loops adds just the spot of lots of colours

Finger wrap of 5 wraps, 

ROW 1: ch2 counts as first dc, 2dc, into circle, ch3, 3dc, into circle repeat, 4 sides, sl st to complete [3dc each side]

ROW 2: Att rainbow yarn with a sc in corner sp, ch3, sc, in same corner, ch3 repeat in all 4 corners, sl st to complete [8 xch3 loops]

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you square is as big as you require.

 A great stitch for making a granny square big enough for a cushion too..

NOTE: Can be joined on either the ch loop rows or the granny shell rows

BLOCK STITCH IN ROWS

BLOCK STITCH BLANKET

  in colourful rows or you can do colour on just the sc rows and use a plain cream, grey or black as the body of the blanket giving just a hint of colour.

BASIC BLOCK STITCH BLANKET PATTERN

It can have lots of ends!..... so i use my favourite circle/ flower/square to start and finish each row, so no awkward ends to deal with with in the blanket itself.

CIRCLE DANGLE: avoiding ends

finger wrap of 10 wraps 

14sc, into the circle, sl st into first st, (14sts)
2sc, into each st (28sts)
ch10, 

Then start the pattern proper of.....
I have done a dangle on each end of the random dyed yarn and not on the black, but you can do a dangle on each end of each colour

Block stitch and Interlocking block stitch

UPDATED: US AND UK terms

it's an easy and quick stitch to do,

simply alternate rows of 3dc [3tr], into the chain stitch loops making the blocks and 
chain stitch loops to take the next row of 'dc [tr], blocks'

I like the effect and the speed of this stitch

UPDATED AND MORE DETAIL BLOCK STITCH HOW TOO 

for this block stitch pattern

 ch the length you require 
multiples of 3sts plus 2sts for a scarf or multiples of 3 and work the stitch in the round

For a scarf approximately 10 blocks wide 32ch sts

For a blanket you would need 200/300 hundred sts plus 2sts depending on the size you require

ROW 1: ch2 counts as first dc [tr], 1dc [1tr], in first st, 1dc [1tr], all ch sts.


NOTE 1: this row should have 4dc to start and finish and multiples of 3 dc as a stitch count
NOTE 2: Do a colour change before completing the last st. 



ROW 2:new colour attached, ch1, turn, sc [dc], in first st, ch2, count 3dc sts,  sc [dc], in next space between not st, ch2, count 3dc [3tr], sc [dc], in next space, repeat to end, finish with sc [dc], 
in the top of the last dc [tr].


NOTE 3: By making 2ch loops and not using 3ch sts, the blocks will be nicely compact and less open,  but if you want a more open and lacy effect then use ch3 loops


ROW 3: att, next colour, ch2 counts as first dc [tr], 3dc [3tr], into first ch loop, 3dc [3tr], in every ch loop to end, finish with 4dc [4tr], in last loop.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for as many times as you require.

NOTE: EACH BLOCK ROW MUST START AND FINISH WITH 4 DC [4TR] for this pattern


TIP: 
COLOUR CHANGES ON A STRAIGHT PIECE
If you are changing colour every row then cut off and weave in ends on each row, but if you are working with just 2 colours one for the sc/ch sts and one for the blocks then do a colour change before completing the last st on each row when possible....it will help with the number of ends

Block Stitch Baby Blanket 

INTERLOCKING BLOCK STITCH PURSE 

Interlocking Block Stitch Purse

OTHER STITCHES THAT CAN BE INTERLOCKED

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